Chopard LUC Strike One
Chopard LUC STRIKE ONE
Chopard LUC Strike One, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, is a lonely bell every moment. In this case, the Geneva brand has opted to eschew traditional steel gongs in favor of the patented one-piece sapphire crystal gongs that first appeared on the award-winning LUC Full Strike. In addition to its sonorous pleasure, this fine example of haute horlogerie is enriched with impressive qualities. Angus Davis takes readers on a fascinating journey of discovery.
I remember when I was a kid, summer vacation was an eternity. In fact, when I was a teenager, time seemed to trudge slowly and heavily in a sea of syrup. Now that I'm in my 50s, time seems to be evaporating. Weeks feel like days, and it seems like every waking hour has less time.
Lifetime Metronome
The Chopard LUC Strike One is equipped with an autophonic channel for one strike in the past. This complication is like a metronome in life, putting aside all perceptions of time and providing a calming soundtrack throughout the day. Suddenly, the rhythm of life seems measured and composed, without false impressions.
The history of the striking clock
The striking clock is thought to date back to the 16th century. They sometimes have no hands and just pass time auditorily. Since then, bells have provided an accompaniment to everyday life in many cities, towns and villages in Europe and beyond. The main difference between a striking watch and a minute repeater is that the latter's complication uses a sophisticated mechanism that "reads" the current time and sounds the hours, quarters and minutes as needed.
Attractive watch and minute repeater
Minute repeaters and the finest striking timepieces often use steel gongs, which are rounded and then subjected to repeated heating and quenching cycles. After this, the gongs are carefully filed until they produce a clear specific note accompanied by a pleasant tone. Typically, the minute repeater uses two hammers to strike both gongs.
Chopard produces chimes and minute repeaters, the latter being more expensive due to the extra complexity. However, the Geneva brand has broken with tradition by equipping its chimes and minute repeaters with a patented one-piece sapphire crystal gong instead of the traditional steel gong. Originally, this unique sapphire crystal was mounted on the LUC Full Strike timepiece, the manufacturer's first minute repeater watch, which won the "Golden Needle" award at the 2017 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.
With the traditional minute repeater, the gongs are combined with the "diagram" and fixed to the movement and case. However, the patented monolithic sapphire crystal gongs sit above the movement and the sound passes through the top of the watch, so its quality and power of sound are not affected by the case material.
Chopard developed the one-piece sapphire crystal gong for its first minute repeater, and has now applied its patented technology to the LUC Strike One, a watch that blazes every hour with rich, clear sound without harshness.
CHOPARD LUC STRIKE ONE——Timekeeping Mechanism
As mentioned, the Chopard LUC Strike One beeps every hour, however, the crown contains a button that allows the wearer to turn the striking mode on or off as desired. A small hole section on the dial at 12 o'clock reveals a dual tone dial that shows whether the watch is set to "chime" or "silent".
While the compelling mechanics are the headliners, the campaign contains a slew of additional properties worth mentioning.
The Calibre LUC 96.32-L is a self-winding movement with a micro-rotor. Only a few brands have the necessary expertise to manufacture movements equipped with such a small oscillating weight. One of the main challenges is to generate enough inertia from the rotation of the micro-rotor to power the mainspring (there are two of this movement). However, since the release of the first LUC caliber, the LUC 1.96 (now known as the LUC Calibre 96.01-L), Chopard has produced several models with micro-rotors. By eschewing the full-scale rotor and placing the micro-rotor flush with the bridges, the resulting movement is thinner and offers an excellent view of the exquisite finish.
In terms of finishing, the Chopard LUC Strike One is executed to a flawless standard, with all traces of machining eradicated. Perlage, anglage, Côtes de Genève, polished gems and spiral sinks, mirror-polished – the variety of decorations used is breathtaking. The watch is also stamped with the highly regarded Geneva Seal, independently audited by TimeLab. The criteria required by Poinçon de Genève include the materials used, the quality controls in place, the finishing techniques employed and the high standard of precision synonymous with "punch press".
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CALIBRE LUC 96.32-L – other technical highlights
Equipped with two barrels, the movement provides 65 hours of autonomous running time. However, in addition to this impressive power reserve, the use of two barrels instead of one allows for a more stable torque for the escapement and regulating mechanism, resulting in superior timekeeping performance.
Another improvement of this movement is related to the hairspring equipped with the Philips terminal curve. This feature ensures that the hairspring breathes more concentrically, enhancing isochronism. The Chopard LUC Strike One is certified as a chronometer by COSC, another form of independent review that upholds the Geneva brand's reputation for making high-precision timepieces.
Given the complexity of the Calibre LUC 96.32-L, the dial appears rather simple at first glance. In some ways, it's simple, indicating hours, minutes, and seconds in a user-friendly format. However, look again and examine each of the constituent elements.
The gilded princess sesame hour and minute hands, often favored by the brand, appear to float above a hand-guilloché "central medallion" with a honeycomb pattern. As already mentioned, the aperture indicating the state of the striking mechanism (on/off) is located at 12 o'clock and is set with a gold ring,
The beautifully polished hammer at 1 o'clock delivers a pleasing movement every hour as it strikes the one-piece sapphire crystal gong. Under the hammer, a bowl of pearl soup can be seen. The indexes are snailed and decorated with gold-plated herringbone indexes. On the periphery of the hour track is the traditional chemin de fer. Interestingly, this railway-like track is engraved on the innovative sapphire crystal. Completing the list of features is the snailed small seconds dial. The fusion of textures and warm golden tones infuse this horological landscape with a captivating look while maintaining a high level of intelligibility.
Chopard LUC STRIKE ONE – Case
Considering the Chopard LUC Strike One contains 275 movement components, it is surprisingly modest in size. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 9.86mm, this timepiece's understated graduations are a product of the brand's engineering prowess. With the watch on, it fits comfortably on the wrist with no signs of chafing or scratching.
This watch is crafted from ethical 18-karat rose gold. By the way, Ethical Gold is a responsible sourcing program that the luxury brand launched a few years ago. The case combines a polished bezel and caseback with a vertical brushed case. This is yet another example of Chopard sticking to its tried-and-true design language. Watch lovers should take note that consistency in design avoids obsolescence, as Chopard LUC fans will no doubt attest, the consistency of this Maison is excellent.
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A hand-stitched grey alligator leather strap with matching lining completes this elegant outfit.
The Chopard LUC Strike One is a highly technical watch that tells the time every moment. Accompanied by a mirror-polished hammer striking the innovative sapphire gong, this hourly ritual provides an exceptional visual spectacle.
Despite its complexity, this is a timepiece that can be easily worn every day. The dial is easy to understand, the movement guarantees precision, and the case is well-sized for a comfortable fit.
In addition to its beautiful appearance, the dial, case and movement are enriched with many carefully crafted details. The hand-guilloché "central medallion" on the dial is the crystallization of the craftsman's superb skills. Again, one case finish would be simpler, but Chopard has repeatedly demonstrated its virtuosity in juxtaposing two different finishes. And, let's not ignore exercise. Leaving aside the mechanical virtuosity of the Calibre LUC 96.32-L, the finishing is flawless, an essential requirement for any watch bearing the Geneva Seal.
While most of my articles refer to this model's impressive timekeeping performance, time can also be viewed in a philosophical sense. Our perception of time, or rather the passage of time, is influenced by emotions. For example, a car trip can stretch the time to the point of being extremely tedious. Also, as I mentioned earlier, our perception of time is also affected by age. However, the solo performance of the hammer striking the sapphire gong sweeps away perception and imparts logic. Each individual chime of LUC Strike One is an accurate and captivating reminder that time passes at a constant rate.
Model: Chopard LUC Strike One
Reference: 161949-5001
Case: Ethical 18 karat rose gold, diameter 40.0 mm, height 9.86 mm, sapphire crystal and display case back
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, striking/silent aperture at 12 o'clock, stop-seconds function, striking mechanism
Movement: LUC 96.32-L, self-winding, 28,800 vph (4Hz); 33 jewels, 65-hour power reserve, Certified Chronometer (COSC), Seal of Geneva
Bracelet: Hand-stitched grey alligator leather strap, grey alligator leather lining, polished and satin-brushed 18-karat rose gold pin buckle
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