Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti TT200.21.AA.AA.A
Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti Double Tourbillon Chronograph
If I told you about a watch that came out recently, 46mm wide and 16mm thick, with two flying one-minute tourbillons on the dial, in solid 18k gold, you'd probably guess it was Jacob's Watch & Company — -you are right. Behold, the Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti watch, the latest $250,000 watch that's actually comparable to the car company it co-brands.
In 2019, Jacob & Co. took over as Bugatti's luxury watch partner from Parmigiani Fleurier, the Molsheim, France-based ultra-premium automaker that also makes smartwatches and other more affordable timepieces. Clearly designed for Bugatti owners, these Jacob & Co. watches continue the tradition of timepieces that are extremely complicated and decidedly gigantic. While the tide has turned for larger watches, these need to measure around 46mm wide to house complex, bulky movements.
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With the Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti watch, we see the JCFM09 movement, which is about the size of some luxury chronographs—packed in a box and ready to wear. This hand-wound movement packs 470 components and 92 jewels into a space measuring 41.55mm wide and 8.92mm thick. The bulk of this is taken up by the twin flying one-minute tourbillons at 5 and 7 o'clock, with an EB-shaped tourbillon cage, where EB stands for Ettore Bugatti, who founded his own watch in 1909. car factory. This particular model is named after him eldest son Jean Bugatti took over the company from his father and went on to create masterpieces such as the two-tone Type 50 series, the extra-long Type 41 Royale or the collector's sweetheart Type 57SC Atlantic. A similar acquisition took place at the helm of Jacob & Co., son of founder Jacob Arabov,
Here's how the Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti watch works. First, it indicates the hours and minutes via two arrows that visibly float around the periphery of the dial. Second, it allows the wearer to use a rather unique layout of the chronograph via two centrally mounted hands, the larger of which ticks between 0 and 10 seconds and the shorter tens of seconds that elapse in a minute. Then, there’s what Superfine Watchmaking likes to call a “digital counter”; it has no numbers of course, so called because it uses two Arabic numerals to jump from one indication to the next, mimicking a switch in a digital display. Overall, the chronograph can measure up to 30 minutes, uses a dedicated escapement located on the case back, and runs not at 3Hz like the main movement, but at 5Hz, and has its own two-hour power reserve .
The main dial is domed and framed around the seconds scale, and the circular apertures reveal the two flying tourbillons. Interestingly, while Jacob & Co. has demonstrated its mastery of spectacular complications—think epic twin-turbo fury—in this case, the tourbillon is hidden deep within the movement, seemingly in A location that struggles to catch enough light to make their mirror-polished cages shine. Still, the caseback is spectacular, with its myriad of cams, arms and wheels, and black mirror-polished bridges, spread over a black chrome-polished and circular-grained main plate.
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A Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti watch is as heavy on the wrist as it is on the eye - don't forget to wear this watch. The slim bezel and wide dial add presence on the wrist, as does the embossed leather strap with its wide solid gold folding clasp. The crown and classic pump buttons are undoubtedly the most common parts of this watch, which of course goes for a more retro look to match the cream dial and vintage red Bugatti badge.
Jacob & Co's Bugatti collaboration watches uniquely blend high-end and highly specialized horological complications with the otherworldly look and style that have always characterized Jean Bugatti watches. Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti watches are enormously complex and massive on the inside, but in some ways limited on the outside.
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